Soviet Legacy

The ridge line slicing through the bottom third of the frame separates Vake (foreground) from Saburtalo (background).

We observed the federal holiday by taking a driving tour in part of Tbilisi. The city is situated in a river valley surrounded on all sides by mountains that provide lovely vistas from many perspectives. Although there were natural and historical sites to take in, what interested me most was the ubiquitous Communist-era construction.

Towering in the morning light.

These buildings cover the mountain's ascent in Saburtalo, a district of Tbilisi. From a distance they shine like white limestone. The sight reminded me of my first view of Jerusalem many years ago.

Up close they are less appealing and more, well, peeling. And cracking and crumbling. They call these apartment highrises Brezhnev's buildings, they top off at 16 floors and are the legacy of the latter Soviet leader. These are not to be confused with Krushchev's buildings, the Khrushchyovka, which never exceed 5 stories and were built earlier, with pre-fab concrete walls, no elevators, and a 25-year (long since expired) shelf life.

Growing up in 1980s America, I never heard about Communism without a reference to oppression and evil.  It was understood that every member of the Soviet Union was like a prisoner that longed to escape, probably to America; and every Soviet pursuit was tantamount to an act of war. Consequently, the act of witnessing in person these innocuous, protective structures, full of striving people, brought a profound new awareness.

I'll admit the first time I saw these towers it was hard to think they were anything but ugly, but they've grown on me. There is some mysterious appeal to their motley uniformity. And despite the flawed system that Soviet Communism turned out to be, I have to stand in awe of the noble attempt to provide affordable (free) housing for every individual.

Silent Giant