We teamed up with our former driver to visit, among other things, The Chronicle of Georgia--a massive work of sculpture the locals also refer to as "Stonehenge". It was started in 1985 by Zurab Tsereteli, and remains partially incomplete. Tsereteli is a Georgian-born, Soviet-trained sculptor who has lived a prolific nearly 80 years. His sculpture is mostly found across the Former Soviet Union with some pieces in North America.
It is massive. The top two-thirds of the columns feature important figures from Georgian history--kings, queens, heros, martyrs, etc.-- and the bottom tier depicts stories from the life of Christ. With a vast majority of the population practicing Orthodox Christianity--since the fourth century--their national narrative is fully intertwined with their religion.
The Chronicle of Georgia can be seen from all around Tbilisi, but DT told us few Georgians have actually seen it up close. It was a ghost town on this particular Saturday, and felt more like a tomb than a national monument. Tsereteli's work is often controversial and "blamed and mocked for being incongruously pompous and out of proportion," but we appreciated the idea of preserving a national narrative through sculpture.
The hilltop location features fantastic views of the Tbilisi Sea, which is not really a "sea" at all, nor even a real lake, but a reservoir.
But the girls were hardly interested in the monument, or the sea . . . or the "lake" . . .
SPRING was in full bloom on the hillside,
and they had eyes for nothing else.
We were bombarded with bouquets of wildflowers,
And obliged to comply.
It was ultimately the perfect balance to our family field trip--the cold lifeless stone heralding figures long dead, surrounded by hillsides bursting forth with delicate life renewed.
Holy Cow! That place is HUGE! I love that photo of your little guy. It reminds me of your baby photos.
ReplyDeleteIt IS huge. It reminded me of the sphinx from the never ending story that Atreyu had to walk between. solemn and a bit spooky. The baby looks so much like me at times, it's surreal.
DeleteWhen I see this colossal art in countries where the standard of living is somewhat lower than in the West I often wonder if it isn't a form of national compensation. It also has a sort of primitive sense like the Pharaohs of Egypt - wanting to leave a lasting legacy in stone. It seems as nations modernize they have less need to go the 'gee-whiz' route. Their own infrastructure, technology and culture obviate the need for such statements. I really don't know how this works, but I think it's similar in individuals. The need for ostentation recedes as real accomplishment increases.
ReplyDeleteInteresting point, the start of a good discussion...
DeleteThis was one of our favorite places to take visitors - it is amazing. We love looking at the life of Christ and figuring out what they all represent. It is always empty and it's hard to find a taxi driver that knows where it is! did you hear we are in Yerevan? so close!
ReplyDeleteWhile chatting with my Sunday School teacher about the representations of Christ in Tiblisi, I googled the Stonehenge of Tiblisi and found your blog. That was a memorable visit for me (we went there with the Reese's my last Sunday there). Thank you for the memories. I especially remember all the men - total strangers - would pick up little Jude and love him to pieces. I visited the country - and the Branch - when I flew over to help my daughter bring home their three towhead boys. The members at church will probably remember the Perrin family. They might even remember me. Enjoy your stay; I was sad to leave after a few short weeks.
ReplyDeleteLynne Curtis in Gilbert AZ