One year

Chichilakis are an ancient Georgian Christmas tradition and are popular across Georgia; they are carved anew each season from straight hazelnut branches. Under Soviet rule, the sale of Chichilakis was banned because the curly beard was reminiscent of St. Basil.

In the days leading up to Christmas the markets are packed with craftsman selling these small, usually tabletop-size trees. Candy is wrapped into the curling fronds for children to enjoy throughout the holiday, and then on January 19 (the Feast of Epiphany) they burn the trees, symbolic of releasing last year's cares.

I was happy to embrace this tradition, not only because they are charming and unique, but also because by January 1st there is no trace of Christmas in my home, by design--I find it unbearably depressing--yet that is the time that the locals start ramping it up. So having a few chichilaki centerpieces (but absolutely nothing else) seemed like a doable compromise. Orthodox Christmas is on January 7.

January 7 also marks one complete year in country. And? We are settled, to be sure. We have built up a decent network of friends and support, we have seen many sites (but only the tip of the iceberg), we keep very busy, and we've even been able to do a little good. But we do miss home. Ever so much.